No pictures (from me, anyway) to commemorate our wonderful dining experience at Tabla last night, but the memory of that meal will stay with me for a long, long time. Gil was less impressed than I and thought he’d had better at Café Matisse, but that’s just because he lost the ordering war: Why would you go for a scallop (that’s one ginormous scallop, btw) when there are more flavorful items on the menu? But hey, that’s just me.
The chef sent around an amuse bouche of cauliflower soup that surprised me on every level. It was brothy rather than creamy, spicy and tangy, and nothing like any cauliflower soup I’d ever had. The naan was pillowy and so fresh steam rose from the bread as we broke it. The sauces served with the naan were green squash- and apple-based and (our favorite) roasted tomato chutney. It was already a meal to savor and we hadn’t even seen our appetizers.
Because I didn’t feel like drinking wine last night, I skipped the foie gras (I know! There’s a first time for everything), and ordered the Fricassee of Oyster, Calamari, Whelks, and Periwinkles (with fava beans, Meyer lemon, mango chutney, and coconut broth). Well! It was my first experience eating fava beans, Meyer lemon, whelks, AND periwinkles and it just blew me away. The broth was rich and spicy, but light with a pleasing sour note at the very end. There was no mention of cilantro on the menu, but I found a strong taste of it in there, so be warned if you don’t like it. Personally, me and cilantro go way back and I gots no beef with it.
My entrée was Smoked & Slow Cooked Scottish Salmon (with French green lentils, fennel, and orange tamarind glaze), served medium rare. The flavors were a little more straightforward than my appetizer, but it was still something I enjoyed taking my time with, exploring the interplay between ingredients. The salmon was topped with ramps, which I’ve been dying to try, and they did not disappoint. I’m pretty sure the chef managed to smoke the ramps before roasting them, so now I have inspiration for the weekend if I’m able to rind ramps at the Union Square Greenmarket tomorrow. The only complaint I have about the dish is the salmon itself was a little bland if eaten alone and had a thick crust on top (from the smoking?). It’s a perfectly fine way to prepare salmon, but not my favorite. Still, the other layers of the dish more than made up for that minor disappointment.
And then it was time for dessert. I like unfussy, very simple desserts. My favorite is probably creme brulée, so you get the idea. Nothing on the Tabla menu fit that bill, so I ordered the cheese plate (which I might have, anyway, being something of a hound for cheese). The goat cheese was delicious if nothing special, but I loved the two cow’s milk cheeses they brought to me — both were creamy and a little melted on the plate. One was funky as hell and the other had a smoky bite to the rind, which I saved for last. I love ending my meals with the best flavor on the plate.
I stuck to one drink the whole evening, a pomegranate gimlet, which was — of course — a work of art. It walked a fine line between sweet and tart and pine-fresh, and really went well with everything I ate, which I was a little worried about going in. Anyway, I can’t say enough great things about this restaurant and I’m really happy my second experience there was just as wonderful as my first. Trying so many new ingredients in one meal was lots of fun for me, and I was so inspired by the flavor combinations that I put Chef Cardoz’s cookbook on my Amazon wish list as soon as I got to work this morning. I predict lots of fish soups and Indian flavors for us this summer!