Minimally Invasive

Adapted from Patricia Quintana, via NY Times1 banana leaf (sold dry, in packages, in Asian and Latino markets)
1 pound halibut, grouper or other firm white-fleshed fish, preferably 2 fillets
1 1/2 white onions, chopped
1 teaspoon minced garlic
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or butter
1 teaspoon minced serrano or other hot fresh chili
2 cups chopped plum tomato, drained of excess liquid
Corn tortillas
Chopped fresh cilantro leaves.

1. Turn on broiler and adjust rack so it is about 4 inches from heat source (alternatively, turn oven to 500 degrees). Line bottom of a pan just large enough to accommodate fish with banana leaf; it is O.K. if leaf hangs over sides a bit. Put fish on leaf and top with about a third of the onion, the garlic, some salt and pepper, a tablespoon oil or butter and 1/3 cup water. Heat on stove top until leaf begins to smoke a bit, then transfer to broiler or oven. Cook until fish is done, 5 to 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

2. Meanwhile, put remaining butter or oil in a skillet over medium-high heat and add remaining onion, along with chili and salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion softens and turns golden; when it begins to brown, about 10 minutes later, add tomato and keep stirring and cooking; mixture will be quite dry. When it is saucy, taste and adjust seasoning and reserve about half; shred cooked fish into what remains in pan.

3. Pile fish mixture into tortillas; garnish with cilantro and serve, passing remaining sauce on side.

Yield: 4 servings.