“And obscure as that heaven of the Jews”

(There’s a slideshow. Try that instead.)

I really did try. I went to shul on Erev Rosh Hashanah, back to the temple where I attended Hebrew school as a kid. I hadn’t been inside since 2001. There were about 18-20 people in attendance. Most everyone was celebrating the new year at home; there would be plenty more people on Thursday. Before services began, I heard one of the men say, “I should feel sorry for him? Why? We’re all in this together.” It felt like a credo.

A new rabbi had started at the temple a week or so earlier. I imagine it was daunting for her. Sure, I’ll likely have to give a short speech in front of 200 or so conference attendees on Tuesday morning, but they won’t be looking to me for any sorta spiritual guidance. Or so I hope.

Before the services began, I felt out of place. I mean, I hadn’t really been in shul this decade, and remembered almost nothing of the prayers. Still, I found I was able to follow along with the Hebrew pretty well, and the melodies of the prayers were still embedded in my brain, in the same section where I recently uncovered Glenn Campbell’s version of Southern Nights.

Anyway, the new rabbi started off alright. She called us all to the front of the seats, since there were so few of us and it would feel more intimate this way. We prayed, we sang, we read responsively: it was a celebration, bitches.

Then she gave her prayer/wishes-for-the-new year, in which she called for “action” in Darfur, offered her sympathy to the Palestinian people, and condemned Dick Cheney for leaking Valerie Plame’s identity. I thought, “Y’know, you could just wish for justice and peace in our time, and you’d probably sound a lot better.” It bothered me that she’d use the pulpit as a bully pulpit.

Exasperated, I rolled my eyes. It was then that I noticed I was seated beside the temple’s memoriam board, a wall display of small brass plaques with names and dates of death. I started reading over the names carefully, fearing who I’d find there. My friend Mandy’s dad was on the board, dead in 1993. Rabbi Sprinzen, who taught me, dead since the late 1980s.

I was midway through the board’s third column, when I saw the plaque for Saul Kohn. He died Sept. 1 2005, a month before Rosh Hashanah, and sixty years after being freed from Auschwitz.

I hadn’t seen Mr. Kohn in 10 years, back at the time when I’d at least occasionally go to shul. I knew he’d be listed among the dead, because otherwise he’d have walked up to me outside the temple, greeted me with a smile and handshake, and implored me to sit with him during services.

If you want to learn more about his life from the people who knew him and loved him, download this PDF. (It’s about 3mb.) I think it’ll give you a better impression than I could of what he meant to the community and what he tried to do with his life after Auschwitz.

I left temple that night wondering what’s going to happen when all the survivors have died? When I asked my brother for his impressions of Mr. Kohn — he knew him much better than I did — he asked the same question.

I woke up Thursday and decided I’d find a different way to celebrate the new year. I spent the morning writing to a number of friends and family whom I’d lost contact with in recent months, and then I headed into NYC to do something I’d never done before: walk across the Brooklyn Bridge.

Because of the hassles of getting to the city from where I live, I rarely go over into Brooklyn. So my buddy Mark, who lived in Brooklyn for years before moving up to Harlem, offered to be my tour guide (no “Virgil to my Dante” references for this trip). He told me that he’s walked across all the pedestrian-permitted bridges in the city, and was astonished to find that I’d never crossed any but the GWB.

Mark — not Jewish, but a public school teacher, hence his availability on Rosh Hashanah — led me on a merry jaunt through the borough and back into lower Manhattan. His knowledge of the area was virtually encyclopedic, and he enjoyed showing off the view from the Brooklyn Heights Promenade, Henry Miller’s home, the statue of Fiorello LaGuardia, and a million other sights.

I didn’t talk with Mark about Saul Kohn, but we did talk about Jewish contributions to American culture and learning. Mark waxed rhapsodic, putting me to shame with his knowledge of Jews. Discussing a different topic, I remarked, “It’s amazing that, despite the massive lacunae in my reading, people still think I’m smart as shit.”

I’m always happy to learn, but I try to take in so much that it all overlaps, like this brick palimpsest.

Palimpsest

It was an impossibly lovely day to walk across the bridge: warm, dry, breezy and almost cloudless. The views were gorgeous. I was afraid the time of year, the beautiful weather, the lower Manhattan skyline, and the footsteps across the bridge would put me in mind of 9/11, but I felt very present-tense, and maybe even future-comfortable.

We parted around Madison Square Park, and I waited for my wife to finish work and some shopping, so we could ferry back to NJ, pick up the car, and get home. And that was my happy new year.

(I did warn you to go straight to the slideshow, didn’t I? It has plenty of neat details about our walk through Brooklyn.)

I will kick Norman Spinrad square in the nuts

After work on Tuesday, I headed into NYC to attend my buddy Paul Di Filippo’s reading at the South Street Seaport Museum. It was the kickoff of the 19th season of the New York Review of Science Fiction’s reading series. Paul, who came down from Providence for the event, did a great job with a charming story called “iCity”. It’s about competitive urban planning, the fickleness of public taste, and the use of ‘sensate substrate’ to build just about anything.

I got to the venue about an hour early, so as to avoid traffic from the Yankees game. I meandered around the area and took a couple of pix, but it’s nowhere near as photogenic as the swathes of Toronto we saw this weekend. Talk about urban planning: I don’t really understand the Fulton St. part of the Seaport. See, it’s a quaint, nautically-themed cobblestone street . . . populated by Gap, Talbot’s and Abercrombie & Fitch stores. This stretch is riddled with tourists, which leaves me to figure out exactly why visitors who make the relatively inconvenient jaunt to this part of Manhattan would want to shop at the same stores they have in their own towns: “I can’t believe we’ve come to the famous South Street Seaport all the way from Nebraska! Now let’s get some Pizzeria Uno!”

I guess stores that sell anchors and sailor hats would hardly stay in business, but still. Here’s a picture from out on the pier:

Sailing into the financial district

Anyway, as mentioned, Paul’s story was a hoot. Amy — who took the subway over after work — concluded she needs to start reading some of Paul’s collections. We have a bunch of them on the shelves downstairs, along with a novel or two of his, so she’ll have plenty of choices.

During the intermission, we caught up with Paul and his partner Deb Newton, along with SF legend Barry Malzberg and his wife Joyce. We told Paul & Deb that we’ll definitely get up to Providence to see them sometime soon, especially now that we know Tim Horton’s has opened some locations up there.

Then the intermission ended, and our nightmare began.

The second reader for the evening was Norman Spinrad. I’d read Little Heroes, one of his novels, around the end of my high school days (1988/89), shortly before I started keeping this list. I think I learned about him from a mention in Bruce Sterling’s Mirrorshades anthology — which is also where I first read something by Paul — earlier that year.

I don’t recall what Spinrad’s reputation was at that time. I hadn’t heard his name in a bazillion years, but when I saw that he was on the bill with Paul, I was curious as to what he’s been up to. After last night, I’m now curious as to how he’s avoided being beaten to death by angry audiences.

He began by rambling through some unfunny, huckster-riffic spiel about a machine that allows people to program their own dreams. Now, I once described The Triplets of Belleville as “being inside another person’s dreams. Unfortunately, that person is very boring.” But I had no idea how bad it could get.

Spinrad spent the next 40-45 minutes reading us a “G-rated” dream. The ‘dream’ was uninteresting, overlong, rendered in utterly lifeless prose. I’m not making this up: it was about (I think) a crippled girl at a prom, who transforms into a butterfly, a hummingbird, a raven, a condor, some sorta flying bicycle person, a dragon, and sweetJesusItotallylosttrack. It was narrated in the second person, which made it sorta like Bright Lights, Big City, except even less fun and without the cocaine.

I mean, I give myself credit for sticking with it as long as I did. Virtually the entire crowd of two dozen was . . . despondent. We weren’t exactly slack-jawed with disbelief. I mean, sure, that was part of it. But the sheer length of the reading meant that we recovered from the tension that accompanies shock — even the shock of badness — and headed on into stultification. His only bit of dialogue, some rhyming by a wise old black woman, would have been offensive if we were left capable of ire.

The interminability of it all grew to the point at which an older member of the audience with some sorta Parkinsonian tremor actually stopped trembling. We assumed — okay, hoped — he’d just fallen asleep. I looked around to see if anyone was “into” the performance, but we were in the back row and all I saw were slack shoulders, and some heads hanging low. One guy was bouncing his head off the back of the chair in front of him.

We were a million miles from iCity.

But this didn’t stop our intrepid reader, who continued to relate this never-ending mess of prose. At some point in the reading, I sent a text message to Amy’s phone that read, “At least we have each other.” On the way back to the car, she likened the experience to an undergraduate creative writing class, remarking, “Just because you think your dreams are interesting, it doesn’t mean anyone else should have to suffer through them.” I pointed out that I recently blogged about dreaming of eight-dollar bills, but she thought that was funny.

When Spinrad finished/stopped, I didn’t know how to react. To applaud would signal that we knew the reading was over, but it could also give him encouragement and leave him thinking that this inane, boring ramble was somehow good. Most members of the audience began applauding, but even then the nightmare wouldn’t end.

No, the host of the evening, Jim Freund, politely commented on dreams as Spinrad walked away from the podium. This was enough to start the man pontificating about what he’s “trying to do” with this writing, exploring the “nature of dreams” or somesuch. Spinrad rambled on about lucid dreaming for a while, then headed back to the podium and said, “Can I tell a story?”

Amy quietly said, “Um, no. You proved that already.”

It was late by the time Spinrad got done explaining how an editor objected to his use of the second person. “He told me, ‘You can’t write in the second person!'”

I followed Amy’s lead and muttered, “I’m not so sure you can handle the first or third person, either.”

We had to head back to NJ, even though I would’ve liked to spend some more time with Paul & Deb. I suppose now we’ll have to get up there. Might even stay overnight, if it means we can score some of that Timmy’s coffee the next morning.

Anyway, you were a good sport for putting up with this whole darn thing. The lesson is, if you see Norman Spinrad on the bill for a reading, run in the other direction. Or kick him in the nuts.

Oh, and here’s another picture, from Water St.:

I have no idea what these numbers signify

(Note: none of this should imply that older writers are batshit coots who should be avoided. As exhibit A, I offer up one of my first-ever posts, about a mindblowing reading by William Gass at the 92nd St. Y.)

Laboriousness Day

Summer’s labor is over, dear readers! Now it’s vacation-time!

Amy & I are heading up to Toronto for a few days to visit friends and family, do some fine dining, and see the sights! We promise to take plenty of pix.

Unfortunately, I can’t convince her that we should follow Michael Cook’s footsteps and make a side-trip through the city’s drainage infrastructure.

Have a great holiday!

Best Possible News

There is no better way to start the week than to find out that R. Kelly is about release the second installment of Trapped in the Closet! The NYPost kindly provides a tongue-in-cheek synopsis of the first part!

Amy & I caught part of the first run on TV, and a friend kindly bought us the DVD of the whole TWELVE episode “cycle.” We’ve held off on watching it, for reasons that aren’t entirely clear. But now that we’re up to TWENTY-TWO episodes? Time for a party!

Otto… parts?

(Oh, just go to the slideshow.)

I took the day off yesterday, so you know what that means, dear readers! Yup: I hustled around in traffic, walked all over the place, and sweated like Patrick Ewing! (I swear: I’m taking tomorrow off and have no plans on leaving the house. I might go all John & Yoko and not even get outta bed.)

I’d have written about it sooner, but I stupidly checked my work e-mail last night instead of waiting till this morning. I discovered that one of the eight speakers at our conference (7 weeks from tomorrow) has to cancel, which means I need to scramble to find a replacement. And, being a neurotic, I began to fear that every single speaker who hasn’t sent back his or her confirmation letter is going to cancel.

Which is to say, it should’ve been a Xanax night, but I stupidly decided to play it straight. So, I woke up at 4am this morning and began formulating backup plans. This should explain some of the following disjointedness.

Anyway, I spent yesterday in NYC and, while it wasn’t very humid, the 90-degree temps really sapped me. I probably started out on the wrong foot by heading over to the Strand Bookstore, which never has good air circulation. Roaming downstairs to look through review copies and the philosophy section, I thought I was going to pass out. Fortunately, I stayed conscious long enough to snap this pic:

it sure does

I’m lying about starting out at the Strand. I actually started at a parking lot on 17th St. and 5th Ave., around 11am. The attendant asked when I’d be back and I said, “Around 7 or 8,” figuring I’d take my wife out for dinner after she gets out of work. He proceeded to park the car, hand me the ticket, and then say to me, “We close at 7.” I stared for a moment, then just left for the bookstore.

Since I know you’re all dying to find out exactly what I bought at the bookstore, here’s the list:

From the Strand, I walked down to Otto, a restaurant just north of Washington Square and co-owned by Mario Batali, where I planned meet official VM buddy Elayne for lunch. Elayne was in charge of a pair of kids — early teenagers, I guess — who came down to NYC from Connecticut so they could see a concert at South Street Seaport by Korn. Elayne asked if I knew them. “Not really,” I said. “I think they did a cover of Word Up! by Cameo. And they spell their name with a K.”

“That would explain why I couldn’t find them online.”

On to lunch. It’s one of Elayne’s favorite places to eat. The menu had an amazing array of pizzas, and I felt bad about settling for the Quattro Formaggi, but I’m a boring man. With a camera:

They say quattro, they mean quattro

Elayne was more daring, ordering a pizza with potatoes and anchovies. At one point, she left for a smoke break, asking me to entertain the kids with a story about the time Dad handed me a shotgun “in case anything happens” during a business deal he was making.

When she returned, she said, “Mario Batali’s here! He’s in the other room and he’ll take a picture with the kids!” So the four of us got up and hurried to the front of the restaurant, even though the kids had no idea who Mario Batali is. We tried explaining the celebrity chef phenomenon, but they didn’t seem to know much beyond Rachael Ray. I, meanwhile, was holding out hope that Anthony Bourdain would be on hand, too.

Elayne made quick introductions, and I snapped a pic of Mario with the boys:

The camera does not add 10 lbs. in this case.

I wanted to take a second one, just to show that he really does walk around in bright orange Crocs, but thought it’d be rude.

Back at the table, I said to the kids, “You guys don’t like REM, right?” They made faces and shook their heads. I mentioned that Batali’s good friends with Michael Stipe, and they laughed.

Elayne proceeded to tell the story of her very first NYC celebrity sighting: Carrot Top. “Pre-steroids?” I asked.

There’s not much more to tell about the day. I meandered with Elayne & the kids for a bit, then headed out to my wife’s office. It was good to finally see it, since I find it so difficult to visualize other people’s spaces. Now that I have some idea of what her workplace is like, I think I’ll find it easier to send goofy e-mails and IMs.

Anyway, I headed back into the city till her workday ended. Having left my books at her office, I needed to pick up something else to read for a bit. I stopped in at Shakespeare & Co. on 23rd St., only to find that the main floor is gutted and there’s just a small store downstairs while renovations are done. I picked up a copy of Winter’s Tale (30% off everything in the store), read/sidewalk-gawked in an Au Bon Pain near Union Square, and then headed back to her office.

As it turned out, we were both too stuffed from our lunches to want any dinner, so the parking lot situation worked out. We grabbed the car, made a surprisingly quick dash to the Lincoln Tunnel, and got home with plenty of time for me to worry about the conference!

(The photoset has a bunch more pictures that I didn’t post.)