Category Adventures in Gin

Geneva Conventional

Here’s an out-take from yesterday’s insanely long rambling post. Which is to say, it could actually have been longer and ramblinger:

On the last night of the conference, Amy & I went out to meet her pal Mike for ribs. He promised that the place — a little hole-in-the-wall on the Lower East Side named Georgia’s — had the best ribs anywhere. There were, in fact, awfully darn good. The waitress, who didn’t have one angle of viewing from which you could say, “She’s kinda hot,” placed our plate of two-and-a-half ribs in front of Amy, which we felt implied that she should eat them all. The waitress contended it would give her a fighting chance, since Mike & I were likely going to demolish the whole platter.

After dinner, we meandered on to Mike’s subway stop, taking a side trip into an immense Whole Foods that contained an amazing selection of beer. It made me kinda sad that I don’t really like beer.

(That said, I had an awesome beer two nights earlier, out at dinner at August with Amy & her pals Kate & Carl. It was Alba Scots Pale Ale, and Carl, who’s British, took one sip of mine and said, “It tastes like . . . Christmas,” before ordering a bottle for himself.)

Amy & I decided to stop at Madam Geneva on the way home. It’s a bar connected to the Double Crown, a restaurant where we had brunch on Easter. Allegedly, it has the greatest selection of gin in the city. What was I supposed to do? Let it go unchallenged?

The outside door to the bar had a sign saying the entry was from the restaurant, around the corner. We headed into the Double Crown, walked back to the second dining room, which should have connected to the bar. There were tables set up, but no patrons in the back room. Also, there was no door to Madam Geneva. We walked back out, puzzled, into the main room of the restaurant. Amy started to look downstairs for a sign that would lead to the bar. I walked to another area that turned out to be the kitchen. One of the busboys saw me, and asked if I was looking for the bar. I said I was, and he directed me back into the empty dining room. He pointed to the corner of the room, and I realized there was a hidden door, painted and wainscoted to look like the dining-room wall. I took that as a good sign, in a speakeasy-ish kinda way, and headed into the bar.

It took a while to get the bartender’s attention. During that time, I looked over the gin selection, while Amy headed back out to the restaurant area to use the restroom. The bar did have a couple of bottles that I haven’t tried yet, so I took that as a good sign. Bols Genever caught my eye, and I thought I’d try a G&T with it.

“What can I get for you?” asked the bartender.

“I’d like a G&T with the Bols,” I told him. “What tonic do you use? Q-Tonic? Stirrings?” I thought this might be one of those joints that actually makes its own tonic water, and I’d come off as a gin-philistine.

“Nah,” the bartender said. He pointed to the nozzle on the bar: “We just use the shitty stuff.”

I looked at him for a second or two, then said, “Really?”

“Yeah,” he confirmed.

I said, “Thanks,” and walked out. Amy was just heading into the bar, and asked why we were leaving. “Tap tonic water,” I said.

She blanched. “Really?”

Really. I know I’m going to come off as a gin snob, but non-corn-syrup tonic water is like a revelation. It makes you realize that the shitty tonic water demolishes most of the flavors and subtlety of gin. So serving up high-end gin with low-grade tonic water is . . . well, it’s like Anthony Bourdain’s rant about burgers made of kobe beef. I’m lifting this from this guy, since the Maxim interview it’s from isn’t online. (But, to paraphrase Liz Lemon, Maxim’s “I’d Rape That” list is downloadable.)

“Why meatheads eat Kobe burgers” by Anthony Bourdain

Enterprising restaurants are now offering the “Kobe beef burger,” enticingly priced at near or above $100 a pop. And if there’s a better way to prove one’s total ignorance of all three words — Kobe, beef, and burger — this, my friends, is it. It’s the trifecta of dumb-ass. The Kobe experience is principally about the marbling, the even distribution of fat through lean. A hamburger is a bunch of lean beef thrown into a grinder with varying degrees of fat. If you are foolish enough to order a Kobe burger, you are entirely missing the point. Firstly, the fat will melt right out of the thing while cooking. Secondly, you are asking the chef to destroy the very textural notes for which Kobe is valued by smarter people. Thirdly, for an eight-ounce Kobe burger, you are paying for the chef to feed you all the outer fat and scrap bits he trimmed off the outside of his “real” Kobe so he can afford to serve properly trimmed steaks to wiser patrons who know what the hell they’re doing. And fourthly, you’re paying a hundred bucks for a freakin’ hamburger! Get over yourself! You’ve already established you’re too drunk and stupid to enjoy it in the first place.

I could also liken it to people who light cigars by applying the flame directly to the tobacco and huffing and puffing on the other end. See, when you do that, you’re scorching the tobacco and destroying the taste of the cigar, because the air you’re drawing in is coming into contact with the carbonized mess you left. Instead, hold the cigar slightly out of contact with the source of the flame, letting it heat the edge and —

Oh, forget it. My point is, if you drink high-end gin with supermarket tonic water, you’re a dumb poser. Go read another blog.

Unrequired Reading: April 16, 2010

Your Unrequired Reading anthologist has been laid low by a sinus infection this week, dear readers, but the amoxicillin, methylprednisolone and fluticasone propionate have kicked in. So here’s a week’s worth of oddball links for you!

Unrequired Reading: Feb. 26, 2010

It’s a snowbound dose of Unrequired Reading! Click somewhere to continue!

Unrequired Reading: Nov. 20, 2009

Who expected it? Another Friday dose of Unrequired Reading! Just click “more”!

What recession?

On Saturday, Amy & I met her pal Claudia for dinner at Marea. We knew going in that it’d be a pricey meal; after all, the restaurant is in the shadow of Masa, the most expensive dinner in NYC (which has a $200 fee if you don’t cancel your reservation with more than 48 hours’ notice(!)).

The meal was phenomenal; I’ve learned to appreciate fine dining this past decade, and my Marea experience was easily a top 5. Both my dates were heavy-duty foodies, and they too were floored by the meal. You can go check out the dinner menu here. For the record, I ordered:

  1. Ricci (sea urchin, lardo, sea salt)
  2. Sgombro (pacific jack mackerel, eggplant caponata)
  3. Polipo (grilled octopus, insalata di riso, fava, yellow tomato)
  4. Cotechino (not on the online version of the menu, but it was a pork, cod belly, wine sauce and maybe some cinnamon, in a mind-blowingly perfect risotto)
  5. and a chocolate panna cotta for dessert.

But as I said, it was a pricey meal. I won’t be so gauche as to discuss the final tab, but I will share with you the exchange I had with the Thomas the bartender when I was looking to get a gin & tonic before the meal.

GIL: I’d like a G&T. I notice you have Old Raj back there.

[THOMAS reaches for bottle]

GIL: Hold on. I had a G&T with that at Tabla once, and it cost $17. So, would you mind just ringing one up first, so I can see what it runs?

THOMAS: Sure! I’ve never served on with that gin before. [touch-pads for a few moments, then turns to look at GIL with shocked expression on face] Uh . . .

GIL: Twenty-two dollars for a gin & tonic?!

THOMAS: That’s what it says . . .

GIL: I’ll have a Hendricks & tonic, thanks.

THOMAS: You want cucumber with that?

GIL: Slightly bruised, thanks.

I’ve never felt relieved to pay $12 for a G&T before. (But it was the first bar I’ve been where they have Q Tonic on hand.)

What It Is: 4/13/09

What I’m reading: Antony and Cleopatra.

What I’m listening to: So Still, by Mozez. Because it’s Passover week! And the new Bob Mould record!

What I’m watching: Baby Mama, Bottle Rocket and Funny Face. And the final round of the Masters, which was insanely compelling.

What I’m drinking: Plymouth, Q Tonic and lime. And a whole bunch of kosher wine.

What Rufus is up to: Wagging his tail in his sleep last week, which I take to mean he was having the happiest dream ever. And another Sunday greyhound hike up in Wawayanda State Park! Enjoy the pix!

Where I’m going: Las Vegas next Sunday for a biz trip. None of my usual suspects of biz pals will be there, Tom Jones is out of town, and I refuse to bet on baseball, so this may turn out to be a very boring trip for me.

What I’m happy about: Our seder went off without a hitch and Mom made it safely back to St. Louis this weekend after her 10-day stay. Oh, and we got to see my cousins Lewis & Denise on Saturday (at one of my favorite Thai restaurants, hence the decor in the photo).

What I’m sad about: A friend of mine blindsided me with news that his wife blindsided him with divorce papers.

What I’m worried about: There’s no Q Tonic at the liquor store where I’ve been buying the stuff. Now I’ve gotta start searching some other haunts and begin hoarding it before it goes the way of the New York Sun and every other goddamn thing I really like in this world.

What I’m pondering: What it is about Audrey Hepburn’s in-her-prime beauty that literally makes my eyes well up when I see her in a movie.

They call ‘em “Mocktails” for a reason

As someone who has devotedly sought out high-end versions of two out of the three components of his gin & tonics (I suppose I could buy a lime orchard someday), I’m horrified by the idea of “the perfect ‘non-alcoholic gin & tonic.’” I also believe that decaf coffee is, to quote Superbad, like slapping God in the face.

I’ll have the hammered platter

Because we can always use a new euphemism for getting drunk:

“Looks like someone ordered the Hammered Platter last night . . .”

Throw me a bone

After giving me the double kick in the nuts of closing down both the New York Sun and my favorite Thai restaurant in NYC last year, the universe offers up a handy made-for-Gil-Roth moment: the My Year of Flops writer reviews With Nails, the film diaries of Richard E. Grant.

Plus, the makers of the awesome Q Tonic were so happy that I offered some feedback on their product that they just sent me a 4-pack of the stuff!

It seems the cosmos has made a New Year’s resolution to be nicer to me! (I promise I’ll get around to reading The Wah-Wah Diaries.)

What It Is: 12/29/08

What I’m reading: Re-read The Great Gatsby on the flight down to New Orleans, then started Kurt Andersen‘s second novel, Heyday. It’s a fun novel, rolling across America in 1848-9, but it makes the exact same idiotic decision as Michael Clayton (and a bazillion other books and movies): Part 1 opens in April 1848, and then flashes back 2 months and spends the next hundred or so pages catching up to that opening scene. And here’s the kicker: there’s nothing about that scene that necessitated putting it at the front of book. DON’T USE FLASHBACK UNLESS IT’S INTEGRAL TO THE STRUCTURE OF THE STORY!

What I’m listening to: Boxer, by The National and the eponymous debut of The Good, The Bad and The Queen.

What I’m watching: A bunch of Bowl games, and some Cajun cooking shows.

What I’m drinking: Nothing until my last night in Louisiana, when Amy & I met up with her cousin Wade & his wife Robin for dinner at Restaurant August in New Orleans. Then I rocked a Hendrick’s & tonic.

What Rufus is up to: Being a perfect houseguest with my pals Jay & Kristy and their two greys, Ruby & Willow.

Where I’m going: Nowhere! Not even the office!

What I’m happy about: Being home. And not having any snow to shovel.

What I’m sad about: Oh, another year, etc. . . .

What I’m pondering: Whether my GPS unit has a “no ghettoes” setting for calculating routes.